Tasting notes by Charles MacLean
Appearance:
Very deep amber, Oloroso sherry; American oak ex-sherry cask, in spite of its deep colour, probably first-fill. Viscous, with exceptionally good beading.
Aroma:
A mellow but lively nose-feel – astonishing that the whisky has remained high strength after all this time. The top notes are of Christmas cake moistened with Oloroso sherry, with a slightly burnt base. These are supported by prune juice and baked apple skin, but the overall impression is dry. The base notes derive from oak (shavings, coconut, a suggestion of treacle toffee) and coffee grounds (chocolate and liquorice).
Taste:
The texture is mouth-filling and lightly waxy (teeth-coating); the taste sweetish to start and tannic dry to finish, with a surprising amount of spice. The aftertaste whispers of espresso coffee and very dark chocolate. Like the nose, the taste is lively and full of vitality. The whole palate is in perfect harmony.
Comment:
This is a hugely complex and rewarding malt whisky by any standards. Obviously, its great age adds value to the experience of tasting it, conjuring images of what the world was like in 1948, but – more important from a connoisseur’s perspective – its flavour opens a sensory door into another era, when whisky was different. The fact that it has retained a high ABV after all these years means that the aroma and taste are still vital and lively. Too often very old whiskies lack vitality, owing to low strength; they become fragile ghosts of their former selves. Not is this case!
